The River

Wakpá Tháŋka

The great river. The Mississippi.

The river divides the Twin Cities the way a spine divides a body. Saint Paul on the east bank. Minneapolis on the west. The argument about which city is which has been going on since both cities existed. The river does not participate in this argument. The river is older than both names.

The Dakota call it Wakpá Tháŋka. That is its first name. The name the water answers to.

The river begins at Lake Itasca in northern Minnesota and travels 2,340 miles south to the Gulf of Mexico. At the Twin Cities it is already wide. Already carrying the red clay of the north. Already old. Already holding the sediment of everything upstream — taconite tailings, agricultural runoff, the dissolved memory of ten thousand years of habitation along its banks.

The practice sits on the east bank. The practice writes about places that sit on other rivers — the Monongahela in Braddock, the St. Marys at Sault Ste. Marie, the Milwaukee River in Milwaukee. Every river in the work is measured against this one. This is the home river. The one that taught the practice what a river does to a city.

What the river does
A river divides and connects at the same time. This is the first thing the practice learned from it.

The bridges cross it. The barges use it. The ice covers it for four months every winter and the city forgets it is there, and then spring comes and the ice breaks and the sound of the breakup carries for blocks and everyone remembers: the river is here. The river was always here. The river will be here after the bridges are gone.

Mni Sota Makoce — the land where the waters reflect the sky. The name is not about the river alone. It is about the relationship between the water and the sky. The reflection. The doubling. The fact that when you look at the river you are also looking at the sky and when you look at the sky you are also looking at the river.

The confluence

At Bdote — the place where the Minnesota River meets the Mississippi — the Dakota origin story begins. This is sacred land. This is where the people came from. The confluence is not a metaphor. It is a place you can stand at and look at with your own eyes and see two rivers becoming one river and understand that the merging changes both.

The practice keeps coming back to the river because the river keeps teaching the same lesson: what flows through a place shapes the place more than what stands on it. The buildings are temporary. The bridges are temporary. The river is the spine. Remove the river and the Twin Cities collapse — not physically, but conceptually. Without the division there is no conversation. Without the current there is no commerce. Without the water there is no reflection of the sky.

The river does not care which side you are standing on.
The river is older than the argument
about which side is which.